Sleeping in a converted wooden rice barn

We recently stayed in this cute lumbung in Candidasa.

Staying in a rice field barn

Staying in a rice field barn

Now lumbungs were originally Balinese rice barns.  However some of the bigger ones have been converted into accommodation with a nice cozy bedroom upstairs and an lounge area beneath it.

A wooden staircase leads you up to the hand carved front door – hiding behind the bamboo windbreak.

Above you is the pretty alang alang roofing, which is like thatch, and set inside this roof, which comes all the way down to the floor of the room, are small side windows made of wood.

Unfortunately there was some noise opposite, as the beach was being reinforced against erosion, so we only stayed one night in the lumbung, but the next night we found another cool view of the ocean…

Practicing 'Smiles for everyone'

Practicing ‘Smiles for everyone’

Yaniq wrote new songs with my lyrics ‘Smiles – for everybody’ and ‘Leader of the led’.  We snorkelled in the ocean that was just a hop, skip and a jump away and ate good food, including freshly caught fish cooked over coconut husks, served with rice, veg and a spicy sambal – yum!

We went to Tenganan, an old traditional Balinese village (Bali aga) – but that deserves a post all on its own – so, til next time… I’ll race you to the sea…

Nice view from the breakfast table

Nice view from the breakfast table – and, yes, that is a glass of hot tea not beer!

Effortless snorkelling

After swimming with Manta Rays, see link here, we headed off to Lembongan point.

A tasty lunch was eaten, while gently bobbing up and down on the boat admiring the coastline views and the occasional ‘flying fish’ and I don’t mean Manta, but the small fish that really do fly just above the ocean for quite some way before re-entering their wet abode.

Pretty coastline scenery

Pretty coastline scenery

It was time to snorkel again.  The beauty of snorkelling in this particular area is the sheer effortlessness of it, but you don’t realise that at first.

What happens is that you jump off the boat and the captain says ‘just let the current take you’ he then proceeds to start the motor and whizzes off into the distance.

You are left in clear, warm waters with great visibility and, luckily, before you have time to be concerned that the boat is out of reach, your life-jacket cloaked body is being carried by the current in the same direction that the boat just headed – effortless.

Surrender to the ocean, let it take you above the colourful scenes below, let it guide you softly yet firmly to where the captain knows you will be delivered… safe, sound and with wonderment etched on your face.

The underwater scenes are those of another world, a colourfully drenched seascape of strange shapes, textures and dance like movements.  Fish, of many different persuasions, sway in their stationery sleeping position due to the effects of the small waves that, unknown to them, push and pull their little bodies from right to left.  Those who are awake are darting here and there as they go about their fishy business of the day.

Fish - busy doing their thing

Fish - busy doing their thing

When you are surrounded by an uncountable number of glistening fish all moving as one in the water around you, in front, on your sides, at your back and, of course, below you, it’s the nearest you are ever likely to get to ‘become a fish’.  It’s almost as though the fish have accepted you into their watery clan, you’ve become one with the fish and it feels just fine.

Seconds later your new found friends may have found a new spot to swim in and they all zoom off in that direction not even bothering to wave goodbye.  Don’t worry, it’s not personal, you just return to being human again and continue your slow journey into new realms.

Fabulous corals, some with tree like branches or ferns, will be gliding in tune with the pulse of the ocean.  Vivid purples, vibrant pinks, crazy yellow tipped browns, billowing blues, striking greens… the stunning display of the multi-hued sea garden is, well… stunning.

You float above a blue star fish, a coral designed like a brain, a rocky outcrop with soft pink, almost furry like, ‘hair’ growing out of it.  Sometimes a solitary fish makes an appearance just in front of your face and appears to look at you, probably trying to work out what on earth (or should that read ‘what in water’) you are.  You, on the other hand, know exactly what you are – a happy snorkeller!

The smile of a happy snorkeller

The smile of a happy snorkeller

Swimming with Manta Rays

We stayed in Nusa Lembongan, one of three islands off of the south east coast of Bali, and took a fabulous snorkeling trip over to Manta Point on Nusa Penida.

As soon as we arrived at Penida, after a particularly scenic route by boat, we could see the shape of one of these huge sea creatures swimming close to the surface of the sparkling water not too far away.  I say swimming but really the image was of a giant fish ‘flying’ gracefully through the ocean.

Manta Ray

Manta Ray - over 2 meters wide!

Can you really say they are flapping their ‘fins’ when they look so much like wings?

We quickly put on our snorkels and flippers and jumped off the boat into the warm blue ocean hoping to catch a closer look before it swam away… we needn’t have worried.

Very soon there were three Manta Rays, one after the other, swimming directly towards us.  The sight was almost scary because these big creatures, with a ‘wingspan’ of over 2 meters, looked like they were not going to stop in time and we instinctively started back-peddling in the water to get out of their way.  Again, we needn’t have worried.

Just before they were about to ‘run us over’ they effortlessly and elegantly dived beneath us and surfaced again on the other side of us.  They continued swimming/flying and then just 10 meters away they turned, one by one, in a stylish military fashion, and swam back towards us, once again ducking under us, just in the nick of time.

This game was repeated again and again and I’m not sure who enjoyed it most, us or them!

We felt so lucky to experience this, particularly as this was not even the season for Manta.  There was no guarantee that we would see one, let alone three of them, and on the surface as well.  In fact, some way below us were a number of divers and I couldn’t help wondering if, for all the expense of diving, they had seen a single manta down there.

I subsequently found out, via Wikipedia, that “Copulation occurs near the surface, no deeper than one metre below. It begins with the male chasing the female, for up to half an hour, both often closely followed by a train of hopeful suitors” – ahha, so that was their game – and we were literally in the middle of it.

Two of our huge swimming buddies were completely black, but the third one had a white underbelly and this one also had a relatively small fish that constantly swam just underneath it, in its slip stream.  As you can see they have two, well, what would you call them… ‘scoops’ perhaps, which scoop up the 20–30 kilograms (44–66 lb) of plankton that they munch on each day.  Their tails are very long and thin, and look similar to Sting Rays tails, however Manta Rays are not dangerous.

Apparently the largest Manta grows up to 7.6 meters wide – that is a whopping 25ft across, makes the 2 meter ones that we saw look like mere babes!

Like a secret doorway to another world

Like a secret doorway to another world

There is much more to tell about our weekend away, both on land and sea, but I will save that for my next post and just leave you with these jaw dropping images.

A pretty big splash!

A pretty big splash!