Bye bye Mr Sunshine

We arrived at this beautiful beach with just a few minutes to spare before sunset.

Crossing the wooden bridge

Crossing the wooden bridge

I’d never seen such characterful beach buildings before.  They were all propped up on wooden stilts and were either cafes or accommodation (note to self… must stay there next time).

Walking past the cafes on stilts

Walking past the cafes on stilts

You can see how late in the day it is by the long shadow cast by Yaniq and his guitar.

Yaniq singing about the beach

Yaniq singing Ticket to Paradise

We found a good spot to chill out at and Yaniq kicked off with his song, ‘Ticket to Paradise’ – which was particularly appropriate, given the Balangan beach setting.

I was his only audience on this ocassion, although some passersby did tune-in while they walked along the beach… that started to drip with gold…

Just look at those sunset colours

Just look at those golden sunset colours

Don’t you just love sunsets?

How many shades of sunset yellow?

How many shades of sunset yellow?

I particularly like the colours on this next pic

Bye bye Mr Sunshine

Bye bye Mr Sunshine

Cheers – here’s to sunsets and music on the beach

Cheers

Cheers

Sunset views from Gili Trawangan

The sunsets are worth a whole post on their own.

I mean just look at these views… and colours… (can you feel the stillness?)OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

What you are seeing here is the sunset view from the small, idyllic island of Gili Trawangan across to the enchanting island of Bali.

The majestic volcano, Mount Agung, looms large across the ocean and its pyramid shape is reflected in the warm seas…

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Mount Agung is a very important volcano for the Balinese and, high up on its slopes, is the ‘Mother Temple’, called Besakih.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Mount Agung last erupted in 1963 with lava flowing a distance of 7 kilometers down its slopes devasting many villages and killing some 1500 people.

The lava narrowly missed the Mother Temple, Besakih, sometimes by mere yards!

Ok, that was the orangey, golden glow sunset views… now check out Gili Trawangan’s pinky coloured sunsets…

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A seriously pink sky reflects upon the water, making the sea also look pink.

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The above photo is looking from Gili Trawangan across to its neighbouring small island called Gili Meno (Gili Air, the 3rd of the 3 small tropical islands, is just beyond Gili Meno and closer to the mainland of Lombok).OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Beyond the cloud Lombok’s Mount Rinjani shows itself.

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Fancy a sunset swim in a pink sea anyone?

More from the Gili islands

We took a lazy stroll along the leafy, bicycle rich, lane

Stroll along the leafy lane

Stroll along the leafy lane

and went to look at the baby turtles in the turtle sanctuary

Turtle sanctuary

Turtle sanctuary

before settling down to watch some new furniture being delivered to the beach bar

Careful with that big chair

Careful with that big chair (Eugene! – for Floyd fans only!)

Don’t drop it now…

I’m going to lounge on that later, with a cocktail in my hand as I watch the sunset

Only 3 more to go

Only 3 more chairs to go

Ahh sunsets… my next post will be dedicated to them, so watch this space… meanwhile, back at the night market, Yaniq was choosing our evening meal

Yaniq choosing the fish

Yaniq choosing the fish

and we had a fresh, juicy corn on the cob, dripping with hot chilli sauce

Grilled corn on a stick

Grilled corn on a stick

I was very full up so the next day I only wanted a light salad for lunch…

A whole pineapple, just for me - but I asked for salad!

A whole pineapple, just for me – but I asked for salad!

I ordered a salad – and was served a pineapple.

Ahh, but look inside the pineapple… now that’s the way to serve a salad

There's a salad, hiding inside my pineapple

There’s a salad, hiding inside my pineapple

Yaniq played a few more songs while sipping pink tuak (a local brew made from the flowers at the top of palm trees – far less strong than arak!)

Pink tuak (not pink champagne)

Pink tuak (not pink champagne)

and I chilled out on the beach before going snorkeling.

Where's that suncream?

Where’s that suncream?

Just another blissful lazy day in the Gili islands

Click for my other blog posts about Gili Trawangan, going to Gili here, or Gili sunsets or Jump off the Boat, shoes full of sand here.

Jump off the boat – shoes full of sand

That title is taken from the lyrics to ‘Ticket to Paradise’ by Yaniq.

And, while we were on the paradise island of Gili Trawangan, he played that song at Coral Beach bar, but I’m getting ahead of myself…

Typical sandy beach view

Typical sandy beach view

We jumped off the boat, shoes full of sand, and walked away from the busy ‘party’ area of the island towards the quieter north where we checked in to Coral Beach Bungalows.

Our rustic beach home for 4 fabulous days

Our rustic beach home for 4 fabulous days

Our rustic budget accommodation had fabulous views at breakfast time…

Breakfast time view

Breakfast time view

There was great acoustic music at sunset…

Yaniq playing as the sun went down

Yaniq playing as the sun went down

And Yaniq also played with his friend’s reggae band, S2B, at Coral Beach bar too…

Yaniq ready to sing 'Ticket to Paradise'

Yaniq ready to sing ‘Ticket to Paradise’

He was just about to sing ‘Ticket to Paradise’…

Paradise – wakes up in the east
Paradise – sunshine never cease
Paradise – goes beyond the west
Paradise – better than the best, I’m telling you…. yeah yeah!

And that was followed by a bonfire on the beach

Bonfire on the beach

Bonfire on the beach

with a firedancer

Firedancer on the beach

Firedancer on the beach

Next day we took a shortcut through the middle of the island.

The best way to travel around in the Gili islands

Bicycling -the best way to travel around in the Gili islands

We had just bought fish and spices from the market and were taking them to a beach bar to be grilled.

We were guided through the maze of small pathways by Karman from the reggae band.  Spot the cool length of those rasta dreadlocks hanging down lower than the guitar on his back.

Wait for me...

Wait for me…

Go straight past the local goat hangout.

Past the local goat hangout

Cycling past the local goat hangout

and arrive at the reggae guys hangout…

Cool bar eh!

Cool bar eh!

Yaniq got to work peeling onions and chopping chilis while one of the guys was painting a new sign for the bar, ‘The Mengong’.

Two rather unusual jobs to be done in such close proximity to each other (my job? – well photographer of course hahaha).

Peeling an onion and painting a sign

Peeling an onion and painting a sign on the bale (gazebo)

This is the view looking out from the bar…  you can just make out the hint of blue sea through the gap in the trees and the hanging water bottles… (hanging water bottles!?!)

The travelling painter will be sleeping in that beach hammock

The travelling artist will be sleeping in that beach hammock

They had decorated the bar (which is base camp for the reggae band) so artistically with driftwood and bits and pieces found laying about…

Arty bar

Arty bar

Then it was sunset and time to cook the fish.

How?  BBQ, naturally… pre-burn some wood and put it between a few large pieces of coral on the sand.  Put the fish into one of those wire mesh grilling contraptions and wait for it to cook while you watch the beach bonfire with its sunset backdrop.

Smokin fish

Smokin fish

There is plenty more to tell about our adventures on the small island of Gili T, but I will leave that for the next post, see you then.  Meanwhile, click here for the first part of our journey to Gili Trawangan.

On the way to Gili Trawangan…

We left Bali to go to the small island of Gili Trawangan for four days.

It turned into a full week away, packed with wonderful experiences to savour – very good ones…

Taking the slow ferry overnight to Lembar, Lombok, we decided to stay in a cabin.  We wanted to be fresh in the morning for the motorbike drive through Lombok and up to Bangsal harbour, the entry point for the three Gili’s.

I had the top bunk next to the porthole

I had the top bunk next to the porthole

Clanking up the narrow metal steps on the inside of a rusty old ferry boat we were guided to our tiny room.  It featured bunk beds – that were obviously very recently used!

Staff clothing hung on the hooks, ships paraphernalia adorned the top of a locked cabinet and some personal belongings were quickly whisked away before they gave us a key and we handed over far more money than was warranted for such a place to rest.

But it was 3am and we had already waited over 3 hours for the ferry with queues of people leaving Bali before Nyepi day.  We just wanted to lay down and get a little sleep.  We decided to see it as a very unusual ‘cruise’ – one worthy of blogging about.

I fell asleep, fully clothed, to the sound of a western couple outside complaining bitterly about the conditions and the price – they must have accepted it in the end though as they were in the queue for the bathroom in the morning.

Good morning Lombok

Good morning Lombok

Waking to the sound of the loudspeaker talking in Indonesian I looked outside the porthole.  A glistening blue sea was topped by deep green hillsides.

Soon after driving off the ferry in the bright morning sunshine we stopped to refill and I noticed a horse and cart (the local taxi service called Cidomos) next to the petrol station – an odd combination of old and new.

There are many Cidomos in Lombok (relatively few in Bali).  Below is another one at the traffic lights – the driver looks comfortable enough with his feet up.

Local taxi

Local taxi

Of course in Gili, where we were heading, they only have Cidomos – there are no cars or motorbikes whatsoever on all three islands (Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air – and if you haven’t already guessed, ‘Gili’ means small island).

However you can hire pushbikes to get around each island – and we did, but that is for my next post.  First, let me show you more of our journey through Lombok.

Lombok coast

The Lombok coast – as we zoomed past on the motorbike

The coast road offers many scenic views of sandy bays on the way from the tourist town of Sengiggi right up to Bangsal harbour.

Below you can see a small shack on the left selling refreshments and petrol too! (petrol stations aren’t available in villages)

Typical coastal view

Typical coastal view

Here is our first sighting of Gili Trawangan.

Destination... a small island in the middle of the ocean

Destination… a small island in the middle of the ocean

Time to put the motorbike in storage and get our feet wet as we board the small boat which ferries tourists, locals and assorted produce across from the mainland harbour to the islands.

Ferry boat to Gili T.

Ferry boat to Gili T.

The word harbour is rather misleading as there aren’t any jetties to use for getting on the boats – you just wade, ankle or knee deep, depending on the luck of the tides, and clambour up onto the boat while carrying your rucksack on your back.

The water is very warm though and it feels good to get sand between your toes – it’s a taste of the island to come.

Look out for my next post about the Gili T music scene, the food market, bicyle rides, bonfires on the beach and stunning sunsets and scenery – nearly there…. (the next instalment can be found by clicking here or go straight to Gili Sunsets or here for more from the Gili islands.

Nearly there...

Nearly there…

So Christmas and New Year are over and gone…

Here is a round up of some funky pictures that captured some of the festive moments…

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There were a huge number of New Year fireworks on the beach at Kuta, just opposite from where Yaniq was playing with the band.

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Luckily I found the ‘firework’ setting on my camera and it made a big difference to the pictures I took.

Earlier I’d spotted this Christmas tree made out of bamboo:OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Then as the  sun was setting I went for a New Year’s eve swim in the oceanOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The festive season isn’t complete without a trumpet to blow – loudly and tunelessly, of course, and you get extra points if you wear something cute on your head.

Blowing that Balinese trumpet

Blowing that Balinese trumpet

We had a Christmas corner in the house, it looked like this…

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Yaniq got into the spirit of Christmas – I’m sure the tequila helped!

Yaniq in Christmas spirit

Yaniq in Christmas spirit

It was a very merry one and I hope yours was too.

Sleeping in a converted wooden rice barn

We recently stayed in this cute lumbung in Candidasa.

Staying in a rice field barn

Staying in a rice field barn

Now lumbungs were originally Balinese rice barns.  However some of the bigger ones have been converted into accommodation with a nice cozy bedroom upstairs and an lounge area beneath it.

A wooden staircase leads you up to the hand carved front door – hiding behind the bamboo windbreak.

Above you is the pretty alang alang roofing, which is like thatch, and set inside this roof, which comes all the way down to the floor of the room, are small side windows made of wood.

Unfortunately there was some noise opposite, as the beach was being reinforced against erosion, so we only stayed one night in the lumbung, but the next night we found another cool view of the ocean…

Practicing 'Smiles for everyone'

Practicing ‘Smiles for everyone’

Yaniq wrote new songs with my lyrics ‘Smiles – for everybody’ and ‘Leader of the led’.  We snorkelled in the ocean that was just a hop, skip and a jump away and ate good food, including freshly caught fish cooked over coconut husks, served with rice, veg and a spicy sambal – yum!

We went to Tenganan, an old traditional Balinese village (Bali aga) – but that deserves a post all on its own – so, til next time… I’ll race you to the sea…

Nice view from the breakfast table

Nice view from the breakfast table – and, yes, that is a glass of hot tea not beer!

Reggae on the beach

A month before Christmas I swapped my book ‘A Taste of Bali’ with Fredi Marley’s latest reggae CD.  Two weeks later Fredi asked if he could use one of my poems, called ‘Bali’, as lyrics for a new song – I was over the moon!

Then, at Christmas, I’m sitting in the audience listening to the band and suddenly I think, ‘Hey, I know these lyrics – Wow, it’s my poem!’.  It was a fabulous Christmas present to have my words turned into reggae music.

Fredi Marley playing Bali, with Yaniq on guitar

Fredi Marley playing ‘Bali’, with a barefoot Yaniq on guitar

I’m sure all ex-pats and even most tourists will ‘get’ the words to the song and the chorus is easy to sing along to as well… ’30 days are not enough, 60 days are not enough, 90 days are not enough, still not enough’.

Nice location to play reggae eh!
Nice location to play reggae eh!

Just yesterday he played at this fabulous beach bar in the Bukit and, for the ‘Bali’ song, Yaniq joined him on guitar.

Reggae on the beach

Reggae on the beach

Fredi can usually be found in Napi Urti’s, Monkey Forest Road, on Monday and Thursday nights, so why not come down (or should that be up – as it’s an upstairs bar), say hello to him and request ‘Bali’… which he has re-named ‘Bali Holiday’.

The original poem, which happened to be the first poem I wrote, can be found here.

And a few other pics are here….

The cliff top lift takes you all the way down to the beautiful beach

The cliff top lift takes you all the way down to the beautiful beach

White sand, blue sky

White sand, blue sky

And the sea was warm too!

And the sea was warm too!


Sunset views…

My favourite skyscapes:

From my balcony

From my balcony

Thanks to the moon in the sky
I have enough light to illuminate the way
and thanks to the flowers in the trees
I have so many blossoms to brighten my day…

Candidasa again
Candidasa
Deep light in the darkness
Deep light in the darkness from my friend Sandeh’s rooftop yoga studio

Multi-coloured sunset

Multi-coloured sunset with volcano in background

…. the sunlight’s dappled edges
run along the volcanic ridge
there unconditional love meets truth
and warmth and freedom build the bridge

Just look at those colours

Just look at those colours

Sunset in Nusa Lembongan

Sunset in Nusa Lembongan

Where never ending beauty
caresses a soft and colourful sky…

Where sea meets sky

Where sea meets sky

Nusa Lembongan

Nusa Lembongan

…And you flew
across the skies
of the
universe

A paint brush
in your
many fingered
hands

And you dipped
and twirled
bumping into clouds
of your own invention…

The sunsets while we drink beer on a bale by the mangroves

The sun sets while we drink beer on a bale by the mangroves

Ahh peace

Ahh peace

Just swam in the water and it was hot!

Just swam in the water and it was hot!

Weekend getaway on a small island

If you want peace and tranquility then Nusa Lembongan, an island just off the south east coast of Bali, is a great place to go.

Boat delivery at sunset in Nusa Lembongan

Laid-back restaurants line the beach where you can sit and marvel at the local people carrying anything, from baskets of fruit to motorbikes, off of the boats and through the waves that lap up to their thighs.  Watch the children throwing water onto the sand so that small sea worms appear which they deftly catch and put in a bucket to sell to fisherman.  Maybe you might want to buy a special seashell from these same children.

There are only a handful of vehicles on the island so maybe grab a motorbike driver who can take you high up on the hill for fab views.  Visit Devil’s Tear where the ocean strikes so hard against the rock that tears constantly run down the cliff until the next powerful

Sunset beach near Devil's Tear

wave hits and sprays you all over again.

Take a tour through the mangroves on a small boat and out to the ocean to snorkel through shoals of fish and above many coloured corals.  You just gently drift, on the current, to the destination where the captain picks you up again – effortless snorkelling.  Want something more energetic, get the local guys to teach you to surf.

At the far end of the mangroves and seaweed farms, sip your cocktail at sunset while lazing on a bale (gazebo) that is actually in the shallows of the ocean.  If you are lucky then the mighty volcano on Bali, Mount Agung, might show himself through distant fluffy clouds.

Busy streets of Nusa Lembongan

What a lovely relaxing weekend you can have.