Are you hungry Mr Turtle?

We took a drive out to Serangan island and went to see the turtles at the sanctuary.

There were hundreds of them.  Mostly little baby ones that were climbing all over each other, but there were some giant ones in the big pool too.

Hello Mr Turtle

Hello Mr Turtle

I’ve swam with turtles, but I’d never fed them before.

This was a new experience.

Feeding time for turtles

Feeding time for turtles

I was giving them handfuls of seaweed to munch on as an afternoon snack and they loved it.

Giant turles coming together for feeding time

Giant turles coming together for feeding time

These big ones are 60+ years old and will probably live until they are 80 or even 100 years old.

The sanctuary does a good job looking after these wonderful sea creatures.  They run a ‘turtle release’ program, letting them go back into the wilds of the ocean where, once before, I swam with them – in their world.

Get your just desserts*

My last post was about savoury food, and now I’m on a roll…

An odd shaped roll

A turtle shaped roll!

So this is going to be about sweets and desserts.

Balinese delicacies eaten with a leaf

Coconut covered rice and quetela Balinese delicacies eaten with a coconut leaf

From Balinese rice and quetela delicacies that you eat with a coconut leaf, to colourful rainbow cakes eaten with a fork

Rainbow cake

Rainbow cake

Through to piping hot banana fritters, called Pisang Goreng, dressed in ice cream

Pisang goreng (banana fritters) with ice cream

Pisang goreng (banana fritters) smothered with ice cream

and chocolate hens who lay hot chocolate doughnuts – filled with ice cream, yum!

Edible art on your plate

Edible art on your plate

I love the purity of coconut

Coconut shards

Coconut shards

not to mention the sweetness of a plate of pure sugar cane

Sugar... in the raw

Sugar… in the raw

I drool over delicious cabinets of cakes

A selection of succulent sweets

A selection of succulent sweets

and wax lyrical about our famous pancakes at Rumah Jepun

Rumah Jepun's famous pancakes

Rumah Jepun’s famous pancakes

Here I’m eating ice cream from a banana leaf boat at the Green School, made of bamboo

Chocolate ice cream in a banana leaf

Chocolate ice cream served in a banana leaf boat

and below are the selection of cakes we offered to guests at our first book launch for ‘A Taste of Bali’ with co-author Steve Castley, in CP Lounge, Ubud.  What a happy day that was, as I celebrated having my poetry published for the first time 🙂

Balinese cakes next to an offering

Balinese cakes next to an offering

Now this one is special to me too and has a little story attached to it…

Many years ago, when I was a teenager, I remember eating the best pistachio ice cream on the planet.  The flavour was infinitely sweeter and more unique than the taste of fresh pistachio nuts eaten straight from the shell, which I like too!

I had bought it in the Portobello Road Market, Notting Hill, London and I’ve been trying to find something as good ever since.  It eluded me until the other day when I found this:

Pistachio, Vanilla and Chocolate heaven

Pistachio, Vanilla and Chocolate heaven

Ok, it’s not ice cream but boy did it conjure up old and sweet memories (it can be found at the entrance to Delta De Wata supermarket, Ubud – pricey, but worth it for a special treat).

This next one I found a bit too sweet  – even for me!

Sweet 'Tape', before it becomes alcohol

Sweet ‘Tape’, before it becomes alcohol

I prefer Tape once it has been fermented and you can drink it as ‘Brem’!

So that’s a quick round up of some of the desserts you can indulge in and did you spot the deliberate mistake?

…*yes, I know that, ‘Get your just desserts’ should really be spelt, ‘deserts’ – but it just doesn’t look (or sound) right to me!

Savouring the savouries

Its time to celebrate some of my favourite food in Bali.

First up is Ikan Laut which is fish from the sea, with nasi (rice) topped with Bawang goreng (fried onion), plecing (water spinach), sambal merah (red spicy sauce) and sambal matah (raw spicy accompaniment), served on banana leaves – mouthwatering!

Fish served on a banana leaf

Fish served on a banana leaf

Go on… eat it with your fingers – who needs cutlery?

Then there’s my favourite take away, sate complete (it puts burgers to shame, is a fraction of the cost and rather more nutritious, methinks!)

Sate complete

Sate complete

it is bakso (spicy meatball soup) that you eat at the same time as the rest of the meal, which consists of fish sate (the sticks are made from the spine of the coconut leaf), tuum (made from fish and cooked in banana leaves) and sayur urab (vegetables cooked with grated coconut) with peanuts – there’s none of this ‘eating soup as a starter’ non-sense.

And what about the Balinese speciality, Babi guling (vegetarians look away now)

Babi guling

Artistically presented Babi guling

We’d call it a hog roast and here it’s always cooked for special ceremonial occasions and in this picture you can see a few, of the many, offerings beside it.

And below is sate and a number of types of lawar in take away mode

Different kinds of lawar and sate

Different kinds of lawar and sate

Back to fish, which I eat a lot of here, this is Gurami from the volcanic lake at Mount Batur.

Fish with salad

Fish with salad and veg

So very tasty, especially with Gede’s Kintamani style sambal on the top.

I just love the way Gede has artily ‘decorated’ this fish.  It tasted as good as it looked.

Fresh fish once again

A well presented fish from the volcanic fish farm

How about lumpia which are Balinese spring rolls in a delicious peanut sauce.

Here I am eating lumpia from brown paper while sitting on a black sand beach (Bali has both black and golden sandy beaches).

Lumpia (spring rolls)

Lumpia (spring rolls)

I like to snack on bayam goreng.

The bayam plant grows in my garden and goreng means fried – so the leaf is battered and then deep fried, like vegetable tempura.

Bayam goreng

Tasty snack – bayam goreng

Here’s a primarily vegetarian dish… tofu and tempe, cooked to perfection, with a side salad (I say ‘primarily’ veggie because on this occasion there was some chicken added to the dish! – but I do often have it without the meat, honest!)

A vegetarian dish - with chicken thrown in for meat lovers!

A vegetarian dish – with a little chicken thrown in for meat lovers!

Meat lovers can get some great meals here, usually chicken, pork, duck and beef – although I haven’t seen much lamb in Bali, they don’t seem to have sheep in this part of the world.

Back to the vegetarian theme, can you guess what this pineapple contains?

Guess what's hiding inside the pineapple?

Guess what’s hiding inside the pineapple?

a salad, of course:

There's a salad, hiding inside my pineapple

Yes, there really is a salad, hiding inside my pineapple

Can you spot what is missing in this picture?

Where is the knife?

Where is the knife?

A fork and spoon, but no knife.

No problem… the Balinese wouldn’t usually have any cutlery at all, so I think myself lucky that I have a fork and spoon.  Although, you know, sometimes I also like to eat with my fingers (only the right hand of course!)

When I was in London my favourite food was Thai… and I still like Thai food – but Balinese is better!

These are just a few of the many wonderful dishes, maybe in another post I will concentrate on drinks, or desserts – mmmm yum!

Meanwhile, in case you were wondering where most of those fish come from – it is here:

Fish farms in the lake

Fish farms in the volcanic Lake Batur at Mount Batur

Cooking – with banana leaves

It’s called Pepes Ikan = fish cooked in banana leaves.  And it goes something like this…

Chop tons of Balinese spices and veggies.

The man can chop

The man can chop

Don’t ask me what all the spices are called, I just know that there’s turmeric, ginger, garlic, chillis (green and red) and other stuff… (like isan – not sure how you spell it – but it smells so good!)

Balinese spices

Balinese spices – might not look so good, but they taste amazing

Don’t forget to smile while you chop away

Cooking with a smile

Yaniq cooking with a smile

Smother the fish with the spices mixed with coconut oil and wrap them in banana leaf parcels, sealed with cocktail sticks.

The making of pepes ikan

The making of pepes ikan

Place some banana leaves inside the pan

Line the frying pan with banana leaves

Line the frying pan with banana leaves

Then add the pepes ikan

Prepare to fry the banana leaf parcels

Prepare to fry the banana leaf parcels

Cover it with more banana leaves, presumably to seal in the flavours even more, and turn on that gas

Banana leaf covered frying pan

Banana leaf covered frying pan

Meanwhile stir fry more seasoning for the base of prawns in a coconut curry sauce

Cook the prawns

Preparing to cook the prawns

Don’t forget a side dish of colourful veggies

Nearly ready

Nearly ready

Open up the pepes and smell the aroma

Cooked to perfection

Cooked to perfection

I’m getting hungry again just looking at the pics.

Dinner's ready

– Dinner’s ready

Dinners ready – lets go eat.

Ah, but maybe you want to see where the banana leaves came from in the first place

Yaniq and the giant leaves

Yaniq and the giant leaves

we cut the leaves straight from the banana trees in our garden.

By the way, my only real involvement in this delicious meal was… taking the photo’s – those who know me well, will understand that I’ve never been much of a cook – but boy do I love eating Balinese food.  Luckily for me, all the guys here are great chefs = big smiles 🙂 🙂

More from the Gili islands

We took a lazy stroll along the leafy, bicycle rich, lane

Stroll along the leafy lane

Stroll along the leafy lane

and went to look at the baby turtles in the turtle sanctuary

Turtle sanctuary

Turtle sanctuary

before settling down to watch some new furniture being delivered to the beach bar

Careful with that big chair

Careful with that big chair (Eugene! – for Floyd fans only!)

Don’t drop it now…

I’m going to lounge on that later, with a cocktail in my hand as I watch the sunset

Only 3 more to go

Only 3 more chairs to go

Ahh sunsets… my next post will be dedicated to them, so watch this space… meanwhile, back at the night market, Yaniq was choosing our evening meal

Yaniq choosing the fish

Yaniq choosing the fish

and we had a fresh, juicy corn on the cob, dripping with hot chilli sauce

Grilled corn on a stick

Grilled corn on a stick

I was very full up so the next day I only wanted a light salad for lunch…

A whole pineapple, just for me - but I asked for salad!

A whole pineapple, just for me – but I asked for salad!

I ordered a salad – and was served a pineapple.

Ahh, but look inside the pineapple… now that’s the way to serve a salad

There's a salad, hiding inside my pineapple

There’s a salad, hiding inside my pineapple

Yaniq played a few more songs while sipping pink tuak (a local brew made from the flowers at the top of palm trees – far less strong than arak!)

Pink tuak (not pink champagne)

Pink tuak (not pink champagne)

and I chilled out on the beach before going snorkeling.

Where's that suncream?

Where’s that suncream?

Just another blissful lazy day in the Gili islands

Click for my other blog posts about Gili Trawangan, going to Gili here, or Gili sunsets or Jump off the Boat, shoes full of sand here.

Jump off the boat – shoes full of sand

That title is taken from the lyrics to ‘Ticket to Paradise’ by Yaniq.

And, while we were on the paradise island of Gili Trawangan, he played that song at Coral Beach bar, but I’m getting ahead of myself…

Typical sandy beach view

Typical sandy beach view

We jumped off the boat, shoes full of sand, and walked away from the busy ‘party’ area of the island towards the quieter north where we checked in to Coral Beach Bungalows.

Our rustic beach home for 4 fabulous days

Our rustic beach home for 4 fabulous days

Our rustic budget accommodation had fabulous views at breakfast time…

Breakfast time view

Breakfast time view

There was great acoustic music at sunset…

Yaniq playing as the sun went down

Yaniq playing as the sun went down

And Yaniq also played with his friend’s reggae band, S2B, at Coral Beach bar too…

Yaniq ready to sing 'Ticket to Paradise'

Yaniq ready to sing ‘Ticket to Paradise’

He was just about to sing ‘Ticket to Paradise’…

Paradise – wakes up in the east
Paradise – sunshine never cease
Paradise – goes beyond the west
Paradise – better than the best, I’m telling you…. yeah yeah!

And that was followed by a bonfire on the beach

Bonfire on the beach

Bonfire on the beach

with a firedancer

Firedancer on the beach

Firedancer on the beach

Next day we took a shortcut through the middle of the island.

The best way to travel around in the Gili islands

Bicycling -the best way to travel around in the Gili islands

We had just bought fish and spices from the market and were taking them to a beach bar to be grilled.

We were guided through the maze of small pathways by Karman from the reggae band.  Spot the cool length of those rasta dreadlocks hanging down lower than the guitar on his back.

Wait for me...

Wait for me…

Go straight past the local goat hangout.

Past the local goat hangout

Cycling past the local goat hangout

and arrive at the reggae guys hangout…

Cool bar eh!

Cool bar eh!

Yaniq got to work peeling onions and chopping chilis while one of the guys was painting a new sign for the bar, ‘The Mengong’.

Two rather unusual jobs to be done in such close proximity to each other (my job? – well photographer of course hahaha).

Peeling an onion and painting a sign

Peeling an onion and painting a sign on the bale (gazebo)

This is the view looking out from the bar…  you can just make out the hint of blue sea through the gap in the trees and the hanging water bottles… (hanging water bottles!?!)

The travelling painter will be sleeping in that beach hammock

The travelling artist will be sleeping in that beach hammock

They had decorated the bar (which is base camp for the reggae band) so artistically with driftwood and bits and pieces found laying about…

Arty bar

Arty bar

Then it was sunset and time to cook the fish.

How?  BBQ, naturally… pre-burn some wood and put it between a few large pieces of coral on the sand.  Put the fish into one of those wire mesh grilling contraptions and wait for it to cook while you watch the beach bonfire with its sunset backdrop.

Smokin fish

Smokin fish

There is plenty more to tell about our adventures on the small island of Gili T, but I will leave that for the next post, see you then.  Meanwhile, click here for the first part of our journey to Gili Trawangan.

Enter the Dragon Fruit

The first time I ever tried Dragon Fruit was in Bangkok, Thailand.

Many food sellers in the markets of the Khao San Road served big portions of fruit for breakfast – which included this deep pink fruit with tiny black seeds.

I had never seen anything like it before, but the colour and texture looked fascinating and tasty – and it was.

I soon realised there were two versions, the pink one and a white one – I ate them for breakfast every morning while I was there.

Heap of dragon fruit

Heap of dragon fruit

The next memory I have of Dragon Fruit was when I was travelling for 8 days on the back of a motorbike along the Ho Chi Minh trail through Vietnam.

My driver, Mr Thong, stopped at a roadside stall in the middle of what I can only describe as ‘Dragon Fruit Country’.

There were Dragon Fruit farms everywhere and, because this fruit was SO fresh, it was even more succulent than those from Thailand.

Dragon fruit on the vine... err branch maybe?

Dragon fruit on the vine… err branch maybe?

Enter Bali…. My first taste of the pink fruit in Bali was in the form of a Dragon Fruit Juice served at the Botanical Gardens, Ubud.

Since then Yaniq has bought me two Dragon Fruit plants for my garden, which are growing well but haven’t delivered any fruit just yet.

Meanwhile, he turned up one day with a bag for me… I opened it up to find 10 Dragon Fruit inside – some pink, some white 🙂

Dragon Fruit Juice for breakfast in my garden

Dragon Fruit Juice for breakfast in my garden

I had a pink one (the smaller of the fruit) in a juice for breakfast while sitting in the welcome shade of my garden.

Then I had the pink and white Dragon Fruit along with Papaya and Watermelon for breakfast the next few mornings – very healthy.

Dragon fruit in my breakfast bowl

Dragon fruit in my breakfast bowl

Then I remembered that a month ago I had a Dragon Fruit Cocktail in a bar – the pink/purple liquid goes well with vodka and a slice of lemon.

Dragon Fruit Cocktail

Dragon Fruit Cocktail

Ahh, so maybe that is what I will use the remaining Dragon Fruit for – hic!

The making of Papaya Vodka

First, take a fresh papaya off the tree.

Pick a  ripe papaya

Pick a ripe papaya

Second, fill it with vodka.

The making of Papaya Vodka

The making of Papaya Vodka

Add a few spoonsful of sugar and top up with more vodka

Pour the Vodka into the papaya

Pour the Vodka into the papaya

Wait for days (note this isn’t a real recipe – its just what our friend, Vince seemed to remember and it sounded good to us) – we’ve no idea how many days you are supposed to wait… but if the outside of the fruit is ‘on the turn’ then that is long enough.

The vodka inside had become a very pleasant drink that didn’t need any mixers.

It was quite sweet (note to self – use a little less than 4 spoons of sugar next time).  Also – use the saturated papaya itself in a alcohol smoothie – maybe mixed with Sprite over ice.

Lick your lips and enjoy!

If any readers have tips on how to get the best from a Papaya Vodka, please let us know.

A big bunch of bananas

The bananas were starting to turn from green to yellow.

It was time for me to wield the axe!

Cutting my first bananas off the tree

Cutting my first bananas off the tree

I chopped the big bunch of them off the tree, just before the birds made them into a feast.

Lovely bunch of bananas

Lovely bunch of bananas

Sherry joined me - eating the freshest of bananas

Sherry joined me – eating the freshest of bananas

These are the very first bananas from my garden and I was proud to share them with Sherry from Minnesota, Vince from London and Bianca from Perth as well as all the guys here.

Vince eating pisang goreng (fried banana)

Vince eating pisang goreng (fried banana)

We had raw bananas followed by ‘pisang goreng’ (fried bananas) – delicious!

The rest of the bunch are gradually ripening, giving us daily bananas for breakfast – nice and healthy.

Welcome to my first green chillis

We have many fruits, veggies, herbs and spices growing in the garden – tucked in between the tropical plants.

My first green chilli

My first green chilli

And now my first chillis have shown themselves – they are very welcome as we get through a lot of chillis here – green, red and black ones (well the black ones are actually very dark purple, but from a distance they look black and these particular green ones will turn to red later on).

Did you know that the flowers of the chilli plant face down instead of up?

Then there’s our overloaded tomato plant.  At last count, it had 65 tomatoes at varying stages of ripeness weighing the 6 foot tall plant down.

They don’t turn to a deep red colour, just a yellowy/orange.  They are firm with few seeds inside and they almost taste more like a fruit to me.

Tall tomato plant

Tall tomato plant

We have a vegetable called Bayam that is delicious when cooked as vegetable tempura (i.e. dipped in batter and deep fried – it’s called Bayam Goreng in Bali, click the link for more info and pics).

There’s a constant supply of my favourite fruit from the dozen or so papaya trees in the garden.

Oh no, perhaps my favourite fruit is actually a mango called ‘mana lagi’ – it’s the sweetest variety of mango you can get.

I have it growing in the garden but the tree is very small so I will have to wait a few years for the fruit – same as my avocado trees.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass

Meanwhile the lemongrass is flourishing, many onions have already been eaten and the cabbages are growing well – both the ones near to our eco-friendly compost heap and those far away from it.

There are plenty of banana trees, but the young coconut trees are only just starting out in life and the pineapples and dragon fruit will take a while longer to appear.

Hungry for papaya perhaps?

Hungry for papaya perhaps?

The sugar cane we originally planted didn’t survive.  Maybe we put it in the wrong place, so we have now got some more and I hope it grows so that I can have an occasional nibble of fresh, liquid sugar now and then.

I’m also looking forward to having a mint tea – as soon as the mint plant is a little bigger.

Meanwhile, I fancy a ginger tea… now, where did we plant that ginger???

P.S. If you think I’m green fingered… think again!  This is all down to the teamwork of Pasek, Gede, Ketut and, of course, Yaniq and I thank them all.