Nyepi poem

Nyepi is the Balinese New Year.

It is a silent day.  Full of introspection.

For 24 hours there can be no travelling, no electricity, no work and no entertainment.  The really strict will fast too.

Nyepi Day fell on 31 March 2014 – which is 1936 in the Balinese Saka calendar.

The airport closed, the streets were empty and even the TV stations shut down from 6 in the morning until 6am the following day.

I love Nyepi Day and it inspired this poem:

Nyepi Day

The water fountain
in my pond
stopped tinkling

Lights
on the ceiling
lost their way

Rock music
on my stereo
simply ran out of tune

Whistling kettles
stayed cool
for a whole day

The silence
sent me into
meditation

No laptop
meant I wasn’t
enticed to play

My thoughts invented stories
usually only found
on TV

No radio
gave silence space
to have it’s say

It’s true
Nyepi saves
gas and electricity

It’s true
Earth hour’s
also paving the way

But for me
Nyepi gives time
for life…

to be appreciated
that’s why I really love
Nyepi Day

To read more about the lead up to Nyepi (i.e. noisy day) click here.

Happy New Year – Bali Style

Welcome to 1936, yes folks that’s the year according to the Balinese Caka calendar.

And, as usual, a big crowd gathered in Ubud tonight to watch the Ogoh Ogoh’s being paraded from the football field to the Palace, before the dawning of Nyepi Day – the silent day that starts at 6am.

Take a look at these pictures and tell me what you see, other than the fabulous Ogoh monsters themselves – look closely now…

Garuda carrying Vishnu

Garuda carrying Vishnu

Wicked

Wicked

Monsterous

Monsterous

Gigantic, red and mean!

Gigantic, red and mean!

Well – did you see the orbs?

By the way, I’ve described Nyepi in more detail in a previous blog post which you can read here, meanwhile, Selamat Hari Raya Nyepi (Happy New Year)!

What’s new at Rumah Jepun

I want to tell you about the 10 latest additions and improvements here at Rumah Jepun – your friendly guest house in tropical Bali… (For availability and room rates please contact: rumahjepun@outlook.com)

The River View Room and Lotus View Room already offered many facilities, but now they also have:

  1. Free wifi – inside your room, as well as on your balcony
  1. A portable fan – available for guests who do not want to use airconditioning
  1. A lush, mature garden which provides the papaya in your tropical fruit platter at breakfast

    Fresh papaya anyone?

    Fresh papaya anyone?

  1. Breakfast is now served at a time to suit you between 8am and 11am

    Flexible breakfast times

    Flexible breakfast times – legendary pancakes!

  1. Our blog: www.rumahjepun.wordpress.com provides lots of information, pictures of the rooms, guests reviews and things to do around Ubud
  1. An extensive information pack in each room helps you get the most out of your holiday here

    Rumah Jepun information pack

    Rumah Jepun information pack

  1. We can recommend, and book, many scenic and cultural tours / activities for you

    Hot about hot springs next to Lake Batur

    How about hot springs by the volcanic Lake Batur

  1. Airport transfers can be arranged, with a friendly, English speaking driver
  1. A Rumah Jepun umbrella is on your balcony for your use – some guests use it as shade from the hot sun!
  1. And we’ve just bought new sunbeds , so you can comfortably (and stylishly) top up that tan while you’re here too

    For lazing in the Bali sunshine

    For lazing in the Bali sunshine

  2. We’ve got new uplights in the garden, making it look even prettier in the warm, balmy nights
  3. And, to top it off… our friendly, helpful staff, Gede and Ketut, have smart new ‘Rumah Jepun’ T. Shirts  – but wait a minute, that’s more than 10 new improvements!

    Gede and Ketut - with a jepun on their T Shirts

    Gede and Ketut – with a jepun on their T Shirts

So now there’s 12 new reasons to stay at Rumah Jepun – a welcoming guest house, offering bed and breakfast at affordable prices in the heart of Ubud on the enchanting, tropical island of Bali.

Rumah Jepun beyond the banana trees

Rumah Jepun beyond the banana trees

We’ve already had many guests from Europe, Australia, America, Asia and beyond.  Their great reviews have resulted in Rumah Jepun being listed as no. 18 out of 234 guest houses in Ubud on TripAdvisor – and we’ve only been listed on it since Nov 2012!

So contact us asap with your holiday dates, just email: rumahjepun@outlook.com

We look forward to welcoming you to Rumah Jepun, Ubud, Bali.

Kind regards

Julie and the Rumah Jepun team…

Pasek, me, Gede and Ketut

Pasek, me, Gede and Ketut on a team night out

For availability and prices please contact: rumahjepun@outlook.com

Spiritual Art expressed as Dance

Diane Butler calls it sharing ‘Awakening Art’.  But what does that mean?

I googled ‘Awakening Art’ and found, unsurprisingly, a range of sites about painting.  They mainly focused upon artwork of a spiritual nature and some of them sprinkled yoga or music into the mix.

But Diane is a dancer at heart and so she uses embodied movement to express and share her art.  It’s a term that other dancers may be familiar with, but I’m not a dancer, or am I?

Goa Gajah - elephant cave

Goa Gajah – Elephant Cave

We met by the lotus pond in the garden of ‘Goa Gajah’ (the Elephant Cave) in Bedulu Village, not far from my home in Ubud.  The surroundings of this atmospheric temple go back to circa 9th century and it is thought to have been two hermitages where Hindu and Buddhist monks had resided side by side.

A small group of us sat on the ground wearing our sarongs.  We introduced ourselves under dappled sunlight while the rest of the jungle spread itself down to the river below.

At this point, I was too focused on our conversation to hear the birds sing.

On the other side of the pond we could see a niche in the cliff above.  This small, bare, south-facing ascetic’s hollow is where meditators from ancient times would do their practice and here we were, in 2013, to engage in own practice right in front of this holy place.

An ascetic or monk, probably lived in that small cave for months or even years, whereas we stayed for just three hours.  Their form of meditation would have been very different and the results, after such long periods, would have been significantly more intense too.

Perfect place for meditation

Perfect place for meditation

I wanted to drink from the same natural spring that these spiritual Balinese ancestors would have used, and I did.  Well, it was right there, convenient for us and those monks of ancient times.  What’s more, it was, ‘Banyu Pinaruh’, a special day in Bali for purifying yourself with water – perfect!

Our surroundings were stunning but we were not tourists.

We were there to use our bodies as moving art, to share, flow, express, learn, be at peace and become one with ourselves, each other and nature.  We were there to utilise energy, to embody movement, to embrace space and to ‘be’ Awakening Art.

Diane, an American movement artist living in Bedulu for the past 12 years, had brought us Balinese canang.  We were to use these offerings of small baskets made of coconut leaves containing coloured flowers and incense, while moving. 

I reached into the bag to take a canang and noticed that it was less perfect than the others.  I could have exchanged it, as there were spare ones available, but I decided to keep it.  It reminded me that everything is perfectly imperfect.

This one is a pretty perfect canang

This one is a pretty perfect canang

Nothing happens until something moves – Albert Einstein

We moved.

In the garden down there in the valley, below the temple, beneath the meditation niche and below the constant supply of fresh and holy water, we moved.

Some more skilled, confident or more graceful than others, not that it mattered.  At first I was very conscious of being looked at by sightseers who didn’t have a clue what we were doing, or why.  Initially I felt embarrassed, but when I overcame that anxiety and gave myself to the moment, and to the movement, it felt liberating.

Sometimes we held the canang, other times the incense was used and its aromatic smoke wafted along the side of the lotus pond.

At one point I held the canang up high.  It remained in my hand, yet to my eye it appeared to take centre stage of a coconut tree.  It was as if the branches of that giant tree were emanating out of this small offering perched on my finger tips.  Slivers of bright blue sky shone through the leaves of both the tree and the canang.  I would never have seen this view without this opportunity to share Awakening Art through embodied movement.

Lowering my arm I moved my hand around to my back where it met my other hand.  I transferred the canang and watched as it appeared from the left side of my body.  It moved fluidly through the air in my hand, now to the left and downwards, now curving back upwards in a slow spiral.

Both the canang and my hand moved through Diane’s outstretched arms and towards someone’s shoulder.  Although we were aware of each other and moved through and past one another, there was no eye contact and only occasional, random, physical contact.  We just kept moving.

Sometimes Diane asked one of us to tap a small piece of tile with a shard while someone else hummed.  All through this ‘musical’ accompaniment participants flowed and embodied movement.  The back of my hand briefly met someone’s upper arm.  Moments later I smelt the incense as a hand moved past my face.

I couldn’t help thinking about how few adults ever get the chance to move in this unfettered way.  Usually the nearest you would get to relative strangers is by accidentally bumping into them on a crowded bus or jostling for position in a queue.

I imagined how professional dancers must practice… let go of their inhibitions about movement, shed their concerns about daily life, purely move where their breath, heart and desires take them.  But I suppose that’s incorrect, as ‘formal dance’ requires set moves and what we were doing was the opposite.  This was open to possibilities of different artistic expression through movement.  It was free of rules, constraints and expectations.  It was even free of charge.

Not only could you place your right elbow on your left shin and leave it there for a moment.  But you could contemplate the relationship between these two points of your body which, quite probably, have never made contact before.  You could see and feel things from new angles, different perspectives.

Me, Diana and Brandon in front of the meditation niche

Me, Diana and Brandon in front of the meditation niche

We sat back down on the ground and, following a conversation about time, Diane advised that some elder Balinese people still know what the time is by the sound of particular birds.  As soon as she said this, I heard them.  The jungle was full of bird song.  But to be so close to nature that you know the time because a certain bird sings, or because of the silence when it stops, well, that’s really something.

She also explained that generally people in the east perceive ‘mind’ as being located in the heart-centre, more than the head.  It made me question my own thinking about the word.  I would have said it has to do with the head… and yet, when I say, ‘I don’t mind’, that comes from my heart, doesn’t it?

This reminded me of my own maxim about, ‘Learning how to unlearn’ (i.e. unlearn all those old ‘truths’ that no longer stack up).

The mosquitoes were getting the better of us, so we decided to move from the peaceful pond to the running river, fed by small waterfalls that spring out of a cliff.

Long ago a huge stupa fell here and its moss-covered relics interrupt the flow of the river.  You can walk around these massive boulders with your feet ankle deep in the clear water, and we did, still carrying the canang, still moving.

As sunset was approaching, we stopped and sat chatting about how we felt.

I felt awake, uplifted, happy and grateful that, just maybe, I am a dancer after all.

New T Shirts

We bought Gede and Ketut some new T. Shirts and they look like this:

Gede and Ketut

Gede and Ketut

They’re comfortable, practical and green in both colour and nature.

Whatsmore they spread the message about Rumah Jepun

Rumah Jepun on the back

Rumah Jepun on the back – look carefully & you see Jojo on the step between them

And the cats, Jojo and JJ, seem to like the new T. Shirts (well, a bit!)

Jojo and JJ  squirming to get away

Jj and Jojo squirming to get away

I asked Gede and Ketut how they felt about having a jepun flower on the T. Shirt and they were both happy with the design (can’t imagine many western guys liking that idea).

Outside the door to Rumah Jepun

Outside the door to Rumah Jepun

Gede serves a great breakfast on the balcony… a pot of tea or coffee, tropical fruit platter and a delicious banana pancake, drizzled with honey (his pancakes are famous now, as so many guests have commented about them in rave reviews).

Serving up a tasty breakfast

Gede – serving up a tasty breakfast

Gede is our regular live-in staff.

He does such a great job of keeping the house and garden clean and tidy not to mention cooking breakfasts for guests staying in the downstairs accommodation (and me!).

When Gede isn’t here Ketut takes over and both of them are very friendly, helpful and efficient.

They are more than just staff, they are friends and I know both their families too.  You can see Ketut’s wedding here and accommodation that Gede’s father, Nyoman rents out here – which is up in the cooler mountains overlooking the volcano.

Pouring tea with a smile

Pouring tea with a smile

Suksema Gede dan Ketut (= thank you Gede and Ketut).

Now, let me introduce you to Pasek, the man who built this wonderful house that I’m so happy to live in and share with guests.

Pasek - house builder extraordinaire

Pasek – house builder extraordinaire

Pasek expertly dealt with every step of the project from negotiating the land, designing and building, finding all the workers, ordering the materials and ensuring all the ceremonies were performed along the way.

He made the whole process a joy to experience and I was absolutely delighted with the end result – and I’m still delighted.

I moved in one year ago today and soon I’ll write about some of the changes and highlights of this first fabulous year at Rumah Jepun.  Meanwhile, click here if you want to see more of the house and contact me if you want to book a room.

Come and stay at Rumah Jepun

Come and stay at Rumah Jepun

Siat Sampian – symbolic war

A few days before the ‘symbolic’ war, hundreds of women, carrying tall offerings (banten) on their heads, walk four kilometers to the temple.

Balinese women walking to the temple

Balinese women walking to the temple

The women are all dressed in the same coloured traditional clothing as they walk along roads closed to traffic.

Colourful traditional Balinese costumes

Colourful traditional Balinese costumes

They elegantly enter the temple gates at Samuan Tiga and walk down the steps, still balancing the heavy banten on their heads.

Entering the temple

Entering the temple

As the offerings get lined up inside the temple, you can clearly see the different fruit and pink and white cakes – the cakes also come in other bright colours too and the banten are laced with young coconut leaves and flowers for decoration.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThese photos were taken over two days that I attended – of the eleven day festival!

The people kneel on the floor for the ceremony. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe temple is beautifully decorated with yellow and white material and umbrellas as well as black, white, yellow and red umul umuls (like tall flags).

Beautifully decorated temple

Beautifully decorated temple

Here a young boy is carrying the red umul umul.

Carrying the umul umuls

Carrying the umul umuls

Dressed in white, the women perform a sacred dance

Sacred dance

Sacred dance

And then, for Siat Sampian, they use arrangements of young coconut leaves.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASiat Sampian is hard to translate but effectively means symbolic fighting with coconut leaves and this only happens in this particular temple (although the Pandan Wars will happen later this month in the Bali Aga village of Tenganan – but that is different).Then the men, at least 300 of them, also dressed in white, start their performances/rituals…

300 men run around the temple

300 men run around the temple

After linking hands and running around the temple the 300+ men pick up the young coconut leaves and start the ‘symbolic war’.

Siat Sampian

Siat Sampian

Here they are using long poles in a warrior style dance format (similar to Baris Gede). OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASamuan Tiga is where groups from different faiths gathered together a 1000 years ago and came up with the idea of the 3 village temples (Pura Puseh, Pura Desa and Pura Dalem) – that satisfied each group and are still in every village (Desa) of Bali today.

There was more… but you have to ask me about it if you’re interested.

Once again, I felt very privileged and grateful to be able to attend such a special event.

The Adventures of Vincent

Vince came to stay with us for a month at Rumah Jepun.

I’d known him for years, back in London, but it was nice to have some quality time with him here in Bali.

Waiting for our beer to arrive

Waiting for our beer to arrive

We went out into the rice fields where Yaniq played some songs on the guitar under a roofless sky (apparently the roof had blown off of Cafe Pomegranate  in the high winds just a day or so beforehand).

Nice place to chill out

Nice place to chill out – under a roofless sky

This whole area used to be just rice fields stretching into the distance.

In the last few years a lot of westerners have built houses in the rice paddies, reducing the expanse of beautiful views.  Plenty still remain, but for how long?

Yaniq singing to us in the rice fields

Yaniq singing to us in the rice fields

We took a few trips out together with Vince… to the beach, up to the mountains, to temples, a waterfall and a traditional village, not to mention fitting in a couple of parties, one of which included a ceremony – complete with traditional Balinese dancers.

Vince with traditional Balinese dancers

Vince with traditional Balinese dancers

While at another party we were entertained by Agung, the fire juggling barman.

Juggling fire

Juggling fire

Vince bought, not one, but four paintings while he was here – supporting local artists, now that’s what I like to hear.

He even took part in a ‘Manifesting your Vision’ day at White Lotus Yoga and Meditation studio (I did that the previous year – you can read all about it by clicking here).

He stayed at my house, Rumah Jepun, in the Lotus View Room and met my other guests who stayed in the River View Room.

Bianca and I surrounding the boss

Bianca and me surrounding ‘the Boss’ at a traditional village

We went to this traditional village with Bianca from Australia and to Goa Gajah temple with Christine, also from Australia, and Vince danced salsa with Marne from Canada and came to watch Yaniq play in Kuta too.

Vince, Christine and me at Goa Gajah

Vince, Christine and me at Goa Gajah

At the coffee plantation I found him sitting on a particularly interesting chair.  It had been intricately carved and had a rather nice backdrop of the jungle smothered valley.

Sitting on an intricately carved chair

Sitting on an intricately carved chair

He came to Bali from Thailand and is then heading out to Australia, America, Panama and Antiga – nice trip Vince… but before you leave Bali, try some smoked duck in banana leaf – yum.

Smoked duck in banana leaves

Smoked duck in banana leaves

Oh and don’t forget to show us your skill with a pool cue…

Left a bit, right a bit....

Left a bit, right a bit….

Vince – we hope to see you next time you swing by Bali (no, that wasn’t meant to be a reference to the monkeys in the local forest!) – for The Further Adventures of Vincent!

If you want to follow his footsteps and come and stay at Rumah Jepun just contact me for availability and rates at: rumahjepun@outlook.com

My favourite greenery / scenery

Here is one of the biggest leaves from the plants in my garden – the banana leaves are actually much longer, but then they are trees whereas this is a plant.

You can eat the fruit of this giant plant in my garden

You can eat the fruit of this giant plant in my garden

Quetela grow in the soil at the base of this plant – which you can eat (you can also buy Quetela crisps in the shops – not cheese and onion or salt and vinegar flavour… but, well… Quetela flavour!)

This picture shows the view from the top of the steps, leading to my house, right down to the lower part of the garden where we have a bale (like a gazebo with a thatched roof).

View from top of my garden

View from top of my garden

The bale is a lovely relaxing place to sit and eat breakfast or drink afternoon tea.

On one side of the bale are banana trees, with their excessively long leaves.

Banana leaves are often used for cooking food in (smoked duck in banana leaf is my favourite), or as a plate to eat food off of and, of course, they are used for offerings to the Gods too.

Long banana leaves

Long banana leaves

The view, beyond the garden on the other side of the bale, is an exciting mass of jungle full of different greens… (spot the bamboo on the left)

Jungle backdrop

Jungle backdrop

I love driving around as there are such wonderful scenic routes full of greenery too…

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Travel up towards the volcano and see fabulous rice terraces on the way…

Stunning rice terraces

Or maybe we would stop by at Goa Gajah (the Elephant Cave) and wander around its jungle clad pathways…

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Need somewhere to stop and relax awhile, maybe drink a coconut with a rather nice and peaceful view…

Get to the top of the volcano and stay in a rustic lodge which nestles in the mountainside overlooking a temple and…

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have this stunning view of a volcano from your balcony…

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I’m actually an agent for this characterful property which can sleep up to 6 (ideally family or a group of friends), or you can also book it for just the two of you – a romantic setting with a tranquil lakeside and volcano view.  Contact me on rumahjepun@outlook.com for availability and rates and click here for more pics.

Then maybe I will go back to my garden and pick a papaya fresh off the tree.

Maybe you can pick the next ripe papaya

Don’t you just love greenery!

A music festival – Bali style

I used to go to rock music festivals back in England, but here in Bali I found myself at a gamelan festival up at Lake Batur overlooking the volcano (well there were plenty of volcanic rocks there!).

Gamelan is the traditional music of Bali.

It is unique music to both look at and listen to and I love it.

Mesmerising sounds soothe you way down to your core.

They seem to lull you into a place of… ‘no place’.

Cymbals covered in pom poms

Cymbals covered in pom poms

The instruments are often accompanied by voices which seem to have power over you.  Not exactly singing, not exactly chanting – they seem able to rid you of the troubles of the world and allow you to just, simply, focus on what you hear and see right there and then.

Drummers drumming

Powerful, richly resonant gongs vibrate through your very cells like something from a time before you even existed.

Deep sounding gongs being carried on men's shoulders

Deep sounding gongs being carried on men’s shoulders

Does that sound a bit extreme?  Ah, yes, that’s what it’s like – extreme – extremely soothing, extremely different, extremely wonderful.

And the sounds really are different – they are not from the range of ‘do ray me far so la ti do’.

Banten making competition (offerings)

Banten making competition (offerings)

But the festival wasn’t just about gamelan… there was a Kintamani dog competition, a banten making competition as well as a cooking competition.

One young lad made a replica of the local scene depicting the volcano, lake and surrounding hillsides in… fruit.

Fruits representing a volcano

Local bands and comedy acts were topped off with a full-on dramatic production that had 50 people on stage at some points.

Such beautiful costumes

The story unfolded in front of the backdrop of the volcano beyond the lake.

Oh la la

Oh la la

What a fabulous 2 day festival and we were able to stay in the lumbung overnight again click here for pictures of the lumbung (a style of house, originally designed to store rice).

Meanwhile, below are more pics of the festival (with thanks to Sherry, as my camera wasn’t working!).

Famous Balinese comedian

Famous Balinese comedian

Ready to perform Baris Gede dance

Ready to perform Baris Gede dance

Stunning performances

Stunning performances

The launch for ‘Life’s Journeys’ went well

Steve Castley, who had instigated our new book in the first place, hosted a very successful launch of ‘Life’s Journeys’ last night at Bayu’s Kitchen.

Most of the Ubud Writers’ Group were at the event and seven of us read extracts from the book to an attentive audience.

Me at the book launch last night

Me at the book launch last night

‘Life’s Journeys’ is a collaboration of 10 authors and one photographer.

The book, as well as large framed photographs of the photos used inside the book, were available for sale during the evening – as were our previous books.

Jen Richardson kindly took the role of MC and she did a great job of introducing and interviewing us all.

Books were signed and our guests listened to the speakers while drinking complimentary drinks and nibbling on snacks.

A good night was had by all and a big thank you goes out to all of those who bought the book.

Life’s Journeys is available in a number of local shops or directly from me, contact: julieinbali@outlook.com

Here is a snippet from one of my poems featured in ‘Life’s Journeys’.  The poem is called ‘Where’ and it’s about what I’ve found out in this part of my life’s journey in Bali:

Life's Journeys

Life’s Journeys

Where

…Where houses align in such a way
to keep bad spirits out
and peaceful chanting and laughter leaves
scant room, or need to shout

Where transport is always offered to
the people on the street
and offerings to the gods
do somehow help the ends to meet

Where fire flies illuminate
the dark eternal way
and magical mysteries manifest
each and every day

Where picturesque land is surrounded by
hot ocean on all sides
and tourists love each route suggested
by their smiling guides…

– buy the book to read more!